gown report: bottega veneta

just when i thought gowns had become tacky, tacky, tacky, bottega veneta designed these precious numbers for a/w 2009. i love that some of these can be white without "bridezilla" tacked on their description (like - ahem - jason wu's inauguration gown designed for michelle obama, had to say it!) and, of course, the classic beige hues veneta's so famous for.

so classy, i love it. click here for the rest of the breathtaking collection.

the best of the rest of milan a/w 2009

milan was more scaled down this season than i would have anticipated, but i personally think this is a good move. in an economic downturn, it's never good to forfeit great design (thus weakening moral, of course!), but an item's physical quality, as well as its ability to transition through seasons, should be a top priority for designers this season. i think milan did a wonderful job putting that perspective into execution, despite some of the gaudiness that still seemed present on the runways. here are some other great shows from world-class designers.

missoni
the breakdown: soft scarves, dresses, leggings, skirts, shawls...

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brioni
the breakdown: sleek silhouettes, classic colors, uber-Italian.

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gianfranco ferre
the breakdown: timeless fabrics, black, texture, acute attention to detailing.

(more)

pollini
the breakdown: flattering shapes, metallics, fur details.

(more)

i'm aware i chose more subdued looks, but how chic are they, yaknow?

pringle of scotland, milan, a/w 2009

nothing like gratuitous uses of gray and black! there's no better color palette for fall, and the luxe knitwear featured in pringle of scotland's a/w collection has wearability written all over it (but without the conventionality of some similar cable knits). this label has always been pioneers of high quality basics, and their show perfectly illustrates that notion. i especially love the stark contrasts of the voluminous knits and the sleek, sharp silhouettes of the more streamlined designs (such as the wide-shouldered black dress and long, metallic boyfriend blazer, of which i'd love to own). all in all, pringle was a success this season.



consume more here.

francesco scongnamiglio, milan, a/w 2009

as a fairly new designer, francesco scongnamiglio is a sight for sore eyes. i love the way he utilizes tried-and-true, traditional fabrics - organza, crepe, satin - and reworks them into modern masterpieces. the architectural nature of his clothing reminds me of fellow Italian (turned Parisian) designer giambattista valli (csm graduate, of course), and the elegance is derivative of the elusive lanvin. but scongnamiglio's design direction is what's so important about this collection: on-trend for today, but on track for tomorrow. sorry for the melodrama, but i love this collection enough to sacrifice my self-respect! i'm especially loving the elizabethan-inspired collars and the divine use of that camel-tan color (which has the tendency to look dated).

ps: look at the boots on the second-to-last image - now that's how you do embellishment right!



absorb the rest here.

milan shows, a/w 09

let me be the first to say that the aesthetic milan conveys consistently often does not appeal to my tastes. experimentation and subtlety are two attributes i find very important in fashion, and i believe some milanese designers have a strict code they adhere to when creating new collections, consisting of glitz and glamour. uber luxury is always the staple of milan fashion week, and while some collections honor this common thread faithfully and tastefully, others veer off to the side and deliver pretentious and oftentimes overdesigned duds. that being said (rather harshly, i'm afraid - i suppose i just had to vent), not all milanese fashion houses are the same. but nonetheless let me reflect on some designs that did not meet the standards of class or wearability by common (read: poor) folk that are always pluses.



marni normally has minimalist chic down to a science, but this season, everything had an extremely stodgy flair to it. jacquard party dresses? fur gloves? plaid checked tights? yucky.


dsquared2 was simply a joke this season. everything about it was incredibly hollywood, and they poked fun at this fact with their starbucks coffee cup/star magazine/shopping bag props. bravo for the brand recognizing its own lack of inventiveness, and collecting revenue for all the nauseating product placements found throughout the show. were they too busy designing incredibly slutty/appropriate costumes for britbrit's circus tour? 'cause, in all honesty, i preferred those outfits compared to the brand's rtw.


anna molinari of blumarine is also one of my favorite designers, normally. but everything seemed so cheap and tacky on this season's runway. i was reminded of juicy couture, and that should never happen; i already pass by the store going to class on a daily basis! what happened to all the beautiful pastel hues, elegant draping and tasteful embellishments bulmarine is so famous for? leopard print is all well and good, but not in this context.